Sep 18, 2019

Amazing Basilicas and Gaudi

What a glorious city! There are always people on the street. There is a cafe on just about every block. There are many different languages here, especially Catalonian. The more I learn about Catalonia, the more I realize what a complicated issue their  independence is.

It is also a special experience for us. We have Will to give us guidance and encouragement, but he is not with us all the time.. He works most days while we go on our tourist excursions. Sometimes we get slightly lost, but we always make it home. And home is wonderful, because we have an apartment to ourselves, that is quite nice. Unfortunately, for anyone reading this blog, I am not the best photographer, and many times, I am too busy enjoying the experience to take pictures.

Most days we go on some kind of excursion. We have now taken buses, trains, subways, and taxis, but we walk a lot, usually 5 to 7 miles a day. So Monday we went to Monestir de Montserrat, about an hour away by train, with a cable car taking you up the mountain the rest of the way. It is a Benedictine monastery founded in the 11th century, sitting on a sharp precipice, that has become a pilgrimage point, because of a Black Madonna there. We were excited to learn that we were there in time for the boys choir, who perform every day at 1:00 in the Basilica. There were people standing in a long line, which we discovered was to ask the blessing of the Black Madonna. We decided we could forgo that line, but got a place in the church an hour early to hear the boys choir. These boys live in the monastery, one of the oldest schools of singing in Europe.
There are also several small chapels scattered around the mountainside, as well as amazing views everywhere you turn. So David and I took a hike up to one of the chapels, a bit longer hike than we anticipated. Fortunately, we eventually came to a funicular which took us straight down the mountain, back to the monastery/tourist compound, and a convenient bar, to have a beer as our reward.


Atop Montserrat, about 750 meters high

It actually rained here one day last week. David and I still went out walking to one of the large indoor markets, with stalls selling everything from 30 varieties of olives, to seafood, produce, and cheeses. It was a little overwhelming. Our new raincoats worked great, I am happy to say. Most days it has been about 70 to 75 degrees, perfect for walking. 

We also braved the rain that evening to go to my favorite restaurant thus far. It was a sweet little taverna, with traditional Catalonian food,  Taverna Can Margarit. Will's friend Lau went with us, which was very helpful, because he is Catalonian, and ordered all the dishes for us. Some of them I would never have ordered for myself, like the Tripe, which was delicious, served in a spicy sauce. We also had snails, which were better than the French version, various sausages, bread toasted with tomato puree and olive oil, garlicky eggplant, and roasted rabbit. It was all amazing.

Wednesday was a national holiday. David and I went to the Maritime Museum, toured a three-masted sloop moored in the harbor, then joined Will and some friends to roam the streets, with 600,000 other people, for the National Day of Catalonia. Many people are still promoting independence for Catalonia. There is a Catalonian independence flag flying from many balconies here. We saw at least 5 drum bands that day.  This was the best one:  https://www.facebook.com/jessica.jordan.9678/videos/10157632691023988/?t=9




The street crowd was friendly and happy, and the police just closed the streets to traffic!


The next two days were Gaudi days. We toured Casa Batllo and la Sagrada Familia. Both of them were truly amazing in their own ways. The Basilica was truly awe-inspiring. Gaudi worked on this for 44 years, and it was his sole project for the last twelve years of his life. They hope to have the biggest tower complete by 2026, according to all the plans and models that Gaudi did before his death. They started building it in 1882! Our favorite bartender says it took so long because of the traditional two hour lunch in Spain. Even construction workers take a two hour lunch, have a three course meal, and drink a bottle of wine. Of course, it took this long to finish it!












Casa Batllo was very unique and beautiful, built for a well-to-do family, and now owned and being restored by a family. My favorite parts were the roof and attic. Chimneys became works of art. The narrow halls of the attic had arches to beautify a narrow hallway and vents to increase cooling air flow
















David took the best pictures of La Sagrada Familia. More of that... All of the statuary is outdoors. Two of the major porticos are finished: The Passion, and the Nativity. It is truly a biblical church. The Nativity statues tell the whole life of Christ, as well as the birth. The Passion portico has all of the scenes leading up to his crucifixion. Inside, the arches, stained glass, and natural light from skylights are the focus. There are few chapels and little adornment like you see in other basilicas.



















That is all for now, more later. At least I got the Gaudi buildings in the story. We will see Casa Mila when we return to Barcelona later.

1 comment:

  1. The pictures are amazing mom! The detail is stunning. Thanks for sharing them!

    ReplyDelete